Showing posts with label UAE. Show all posts
Showing posts with label UAE. Show all posts

Monday, November 20, 2017

My Crash Course in Another Culture's Clothing

 
In 2012 my friend C went with me to visit B's family in Sharjah UAE for a month. The Al Noor mosque, one of the larger mosques in the city, offered a Monday morning one-hour educational program about Islam. Al Noor hosts The Sharjah Centre for Cultural Communication, thus it sponsors this event for non-Muslims. We three decided to attend.

At the door of the mosque we removed our shoes and were given the black abaya and head-scarf to slip over our clothing. We had a few minutes to explore the mosque until an outgoing, friendly, veiled woman invited us to be seated for the presentation.

B, S, C

This teacher presented information to the group of curious non-Muslims and then took questions, and no question was unacceptable to her. She enlightened us all about Muslim beliefs, practices and traditions. And then, she invited up anyone interested in trying on clothing that Muslim men and women wear. I volunteered.

I was already wearing the abaya and she had me remove the head-scarf to put on a hijab, which covers the hair and neck area, and leaves only the face showing. Hijabs are very commonly worn by Muslim women, and I will say that wearing them enhances one's beauty. Bonus: there is no such thing as a bad hair day. I once got onto a bus in Jordan on a hot windy day looking like the wicked witch of the north. My windblown hair was a fright. The veiled women around me appeared dignified and serene.

 abaya

 hijab

The teacher had me remove the hijab to put on a niqab, which covers the head and face. It is common in the stricter strains of Islam. If I was a person who had panic attacks, this could bring one on. It was stifling to have my face and particularly my nose, covered. Though the fabric is thin, I couldn't get enough air. I wondered about the women who wear them, if they ever had this problem.  Stricter Muslim women wear this too with their eyes also covered. I have had conversations a few times with women whose eyes I could not see, an odd experience. I hardly knew where to look, and it was impossible to tell if they were even looking at me.

 niqab

One day  in the fabric souk in Sharjah I saw an older woman wearing a leather thing over part of her face. I didn't want to stare but couldn't figure out what it was and what purpose it served. Well, at Al Noor Mosque I learned it's called a batoola [spelling varies] and is said to be traditional among Bedouin women who want to protect their face from the sun. The teacher put one on me. It was not comfortable. I don't care for wearing accessories, not even jewelry, or anything else that has to be fussed with. The batoola would be in my way and have to be constantly readjusted. But like many things, if they're part of your tradition, you probably don't even think about them.

batoola

The abaya itself is comfortable, albeit hot during the summer. It fits loosely so presumably catches the occasional breeze. There is a rumor that some women wear nothing under their abaya in hot weather. I would not ask anyone about this and am pretty sure they wouldn't admit to it, even if true. Some younger Muslim women wear more stylish form-fitting abayas, and some even have bling added to them.

In Jordan and in UAE younger women go to great lengths to look appealing. Bodies are covered but gorgeous made-up faces are open for all to see. In the souk one can buy a clip-on fluffy thing to wear under the hijab to give the impression that you have an overly ample up-do hidden underneath.


I enjoyed trying on the various pieces of clothing. Naturally I prefer to wear the western clothing I'm used to, but am intrigued that Muslim women make these items work for them. To be clear, not all Muslim women wear this clothing. In some countries it is mandated by the ruling authority, in some families it is tradition, yet millions of Muslim women dress in western clothing.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Al-Ain

Al-Ain is a city in Abu-Dhabi on the Omani border, and it was not on our list of places to see on our first trip to UAE. Then an Emirati friend of Jeremy's stopped by to say hello and invited us to come see his city, so we took him up on the offer. We drove out to Al-Ain early one afternoon and met Mr. Emirati here:


The coffee pot, signifying hospitality, is the centerpiece of the giant roundabout at the entrance to the city. We didn't meet him on the roundabout, but a half a block down. Mr. E loaded us into his Lexus SUV and off we went on the grand tour. Al-Ain is an oasis that has grown into a very full city that is still expanding.


First stop, the camel race track. No races were on at the moment but hundreds of the beasts were being exercised and we enjoyed watching them trotting by in their colorful coats herded by expert trainers.


Next stop was the city gardens full of potted plants and various ground covers that looked a lot like plants we grew in our yard in the Mojave Desert, namely lantana and verbena. You get used to seeing displays like this one in the Middle East, featuring past, present and future rulers:



Our guide was so hospitable, and was pleased to show us around his city. When the girls were antsy he stopped at a convenience store to buy them snacks, and didn't even mind that they dropped crumbs all over his car. He took us out to eat at a Lebanese restaurant--delicious! We also drove up to the highest mountain in Emriates to take in the view. He was not in the least concerned about time; he only wanted us to enjoy his home town as much as he did. When we exited his car to head back home in ours, he caught me brushing crumbs off the seat and forbid me to worry about it because "my driver will take care of it tomorrow."

We had time to view only half the wonderful sites of Al-Ain; next time, the other half!

Friday, November 12, 2010

The Real Middle East

Dubai / UAE are best known for its oil supply, unusual and fantastic skyscrapers, and an outrageous indoor ski slope. The traditional Middle East exists here also: concrete slab houses and apartments, the ubiquitous satellite dishes on top of said buildings, grimy dusty streets and sidewalks in various states of disrepair, insane traffic, skilled drivers, fragrant souks, glitzy souks, and even fabric souks doubling as eye-candy. These photos are from Deira (near Dubai Creek).


rooftops of Deira

souk

just what I was looking for . . .

fits perfectly with my wardrobe

street scene


fabric, thread, trims, etc.


a seamstress's wildest dream come true


it must be 1 p.m.--shops close, everybody sleeps


freight business on Dubai Creek

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Burj Khalifa aka Burj Dubaj

The Burj Khalifa opened earlier this year, a new 'world's tallest building,' located next to Dubai Mall. An attractive building yes, and so tall that the perspective is lost close by. From a distance the height is easier to appreciate. It's stunning to scan the city's skyline from a few miles away, admiring all of the tall beautiful buildings, then suddenly there's that needled skyscraper piercing the sky.

 
We bought our timed tickets to the top (about $27 each) in Dubai Mall ahead of time. If you wait to buy until you actually want to enter, tickets cost over $100. Tourists are permitted as high as the observation deck, around the 130th floor. At 1500 feet up, the deck is higher than the roof of the WTC (I took in that view in 1990) and the Empire State Building (which I ascended for the first time in 1962 when it was the world's tallest).

The elevator whisked us to the observation deck very quickly. I don't know why, but on this elevator your stomach doesn't do flips.

The view from the top this night was spectacular, even though the air wasn't clear. The Burj is surrounded by family-oriented tourist sites which you can see in this photo. The center is taken up by Dubai Mall; the fabulous water show is done in the lagoon on the lower right.



the water show


Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Dubai Mall

United Arab Emirates stands out as a land of amazing elements: plentiful enormous traffic roundabouts; roads chopped by huge speed bumps; some of the world's most memorable architecture, men in crisply starched, pressed and creased snow-white jelabiyas; gorgeously made-up women in every arrangement of wispy draped ebony abayas; vast cloudless skies; bathtub temp Gulf waters; worn but fragrant neighborhoods typical of Middle Eastern cities, all of it spiced with flavors and colors contributed by Asian and African immigrants.

The city of Dubai is Vegas on steroids. But as Craig says, "it's real." No imitation here. The world's tallest building hovers over the world's largest indoor shopping mall and possibly the world's largest water show. Hordes of  families from every continent bring their big bucks to spend. We spent hours at Dubai Mall without stepping inside a store. Every storefront featured stunning, eye-catching displays and it was all I could do to window-shop dozens of them. Dubai Mall must hold the record for the most fine chocolatiers and Bombay style furniture, most spacious food court, and the largest aquarium and zoo inside a mall. Ordinarily I'd rather have a root canal than head for a mall, but this place was as good as Disneyland (without the rides) (although it wouldn't surprise me if a few of those appeared someday).

In Dubai Mall I consumed the most delicious fruit drink ever, blended from pomegranates, lemons, and oranges. I'll post some photos of the mall today and more about UAE later this week.

one of many fantastic focus points in Dubai Mall


scores of restaurants


 gifts from many countries


 children's clothing and gifts


 one corner of the huge food court; yes you see McDs and Subway, but they have Arabic, Thai, Japanese, Lebanese, you name it--even Johnny Rocket's hamburgers


one of dozens of candy shops


the gold souk--if you plan to shop here, don't forget to take out a second mortgage before you come


fine pastries and cakes

gelato served here!


more sweets


furniture