Monday, November 15, 2010

The Missing Shoes at the Danube

On November 4th my daily blog post was about the Jews of Budapest, specifically their tragic experience during WW2. At the end of that post is displayed a photograph of a Holocaust memorial found on the bank of the Danube River.  Rather than a statue or pillar-type remembrance, the memorial consists of a long line of bronze shoes scattered along the lip of the river wall.  Old-fashioned shoes. World War 2 era Hungarian-style shoes. Jewish shoes.



A week after arriving home from Europe I saw an announcement in our newspaper that a lecture was to be given by Holocaust survivors and former Budapest residents, Eva and Les Aigner. I don't believe in coincidences. Last Wednesday a friend and I attended the lecture. 

I introduced myself to Eva, mentioning that I had recently been in Budapest at the synagogue and the riverfront memorial. She said she had escaped the slaughter at the Danube through a miracle in Dec. 1944. Here is the story:

Earlier in the war Eva's father was taken from the Budapest ghetto to a work camp, from which he never returned. In December 1944 Eva's mother was ripped away from her daughters and from the Budapest ghetto to a transport headed for a death camp. As the train slowed near the camp she leaped out and made a run for it but was pursued by a German soldier. She fell onto his boots and begged for her life so she could return to her two daughters. He said he couldn't let her go because he would be shot. Then he momentarily turned his back and she ran. It took her a week to get back to the ghetto.

Her daughters were not there, and she heard about the executions taking place at the Danube. In the chaos at the river she found her daughters by their crying voices. The girls had been listening for hours to the never-ceasing machine guns killing their friends and neighbors. Their mother removed her wedding ring and offered it to a German soldier in exchange for her daughters. He took it and the three escaped back into the ghetto. The following month the Russians arrived, unlocked the ghetto gates, and told the residents they were free to go.

I will never forget the shoes on the bank of the Danube, and that there were at least two young ghetto residents whose shoes are not there. I have met one of them.

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Pretty Sights

Pretty architecture and designs abound in the Arab world. Arab calligraphy and illumination rival that created in medieval European monasteries. Intricate medieval calligraphic motifs have been transferred to stone, ceramic, wood, and metal all over Arabia. Some of these designs would lend themselves to quilting using the Celtic weaving technique. I captured samples of the beauty in Emirates.

 inside admin building at American University of Sharjah


 I don't remember where this is; sometimes my camera just couldn't help itself taking pictures of anything and everything without noting what or where it was

 wooden doors in old town area of Sharjah

 wood chest decorated with metal at old town museum in Sharjah

 old town museum motifs


 metal decoration above doorway in old town Sharjah


on university campus



Oops, this is not a traditional Arab design!  It's the enormous ferris wheel at the Casbah down by Sharjah Creek

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Al-Ain

Al-Ain is a city in Abu-Dhabi on the Omani border, and it was not on our list of places to see on our first trip to UAE. Then an Emirati friend of Jeremy's stopped by to say hello and invited us to come see his city, so we took him up on the offer. We drove out to Al-Ain early one afternoon and met Mr. Emirati here:


The coffee pot, signifying hospitality, is the centerpiece of the giant roundabout at the entrance to the city. We didn't meet him on the roundabout, but a half a block down. Mr. E loaded us into his Lexus SUV and off we went on the grand tour. Al-Ain is an oasis that has grown into a very full city that is still expanding.


First stop, the camel race track. No races were on at the moment but hundreds of the beasts were being exercised and we enjoyed watching them trotting by in their colorful coats herded by expert trainers.


Next stop was the city gardens full of potted plants and various ground covers that looked a lot like plants we grew in our yard in the Mojave Desert, namely lantana and verbena. You get used to seeing displays like this one in the Middle East, featuring past, present and future rulers:



Our guide was so hospitable, and was pleased to show us around his city. When the girls were antsy he stopped at a convenience store to buy them snacks, and didn't even mind that they dropped crumbs all over his car. He took us out to eat at a Lebanese restaurant--delicious! We also drove up to the highest mountain in Emriates to take in the view. He was not in the least concerned about time; he only wanted us to enjoy his home town as much as he did. When we exited his car to head back home in ours, he caught me brushing crumbs off the seat and forbid me to worry about it because "my driver will take care of it tomorrow."

We had time to view only half the wonderful sites of Al-Ain; next time, the other half!

Friday, November 12, 2010

The Real Middle East

Dubai / UAE are best known for its oil supply, unusual and fantastic skyscrapers, and an outrageous indoor ski slope. The traditional Middle East exists here also: concrete slab houses and apartments, the ubiquitous satellite dishes on top of said buildings, grimy dusty streets and sidewalks in various states of disrepair, insane traffic, skilled drivers, fragrant souks, glitzy souks, and even fabric souks doubling as eye-candy. These photos are from Deira (near Dubai Creek).


rooftops of Deira

souk

just what I was looking for . . .

fits perfectly with my wardrobe

street scene


fabric, thread, trims, etc.


a seamstress's wildest dream come true


it must be 1 p.m.--shops close, everybody sleeps


freight business on Dubai Creek

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Veterans Day 2010

I am skipping a day of Dubai posts to commemorate Veteran's Day, established as a tribute to the ending of World War One. The armistice was signed in France on the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month in 1918. Here are some in our family who served their country:

 My Grandfather's cousin John Brosnahan, US Army World War 1.
Killed fighting the Germans at Fismes France, 19 Aug 1918.


Thomas Ashe (Grandfather's cousin), Irish Revolutionary. Commander of Fingal Battalion, Irish Volunteers. Fought the British at the Easter Rising in Dublin 1916. Condemned to death along with Eamon de Valera (later president of Ireland); both sentences commuted to life in prison. Went on a hunger strike to protest brutal conditions in prison, was force-fed by British resulting in his death 25 September 1917, age 33.

My Dad, George Bubnash (right), with a buddy on the streets of New York, 1942.
He was USN 1942-1947 and served three of those years on the USS Missouri in the Pacific.


 My father-in-law, Charles Walker, career USAF, World War 2


 World War 2 vets: Uncle Mike Bubnash (left), USN; Dad (center), Uncle John Bubnash, US Army Air Corps.
Uncle Mike was on a supply ship in the Pacific and twice met up with his brother George.
John's plane went down in the Philippines about 1944 so was MIA for about 10 days.


 My Uncle Bill Wasmuth, US Army in Europe World War 2


Uncle Jim Ashe, US Army in Europe World War 2


 Uncle Paul Bubnash, US Army Korea


Brother-in-law Barry Walker, career USAF, Desert Shield/Desert Storm


 Dad's Japanese Officer's Sword which he 'smuggled' home from Japan


USS Missouri heading home through Pearl Harbor 1945








Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Burj Khalifa aka Burj Dubaj

The Burj Khalifa opened earlier this year, a new 'world's tallest building,' located next to Dubai Mall. An attractive building yes, and so tall that the perspective is lost close by. From a distance the height is easier to appreciate. It's stunning to scan the city's skyline from a few miles away, admiring all of the tall beautiful buildings, then suddenly there's that needled skyscraper piercing the sky.

 
We bought our timed tickets to the top (about $27 each) in Dubai Mall ahead of time. If you wait to buy until you actually want to enter, tickets cost over $100. Tourists are permitted as high as the observation deck, around the 130th floor. At 1500 feet up, the deck is higher than the roof of the WTC (I took in that view in 1990) and the Empire State Building (which I ascended for the first time in 1962 when it was the world's tallest).

The elevator whisked us to the observation deck very quickly. I don't know why, but on this elevator your stomach doesn't do flips.

The view from the top this night was spectacular, even though the air wasn't clear. The Burj is surrounded by family-oriented tourist sites which you can see in this photo. The center is taken up by Dubai Mall; the fabulous water show is done in the lagoon on the lower right.



the water show


Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Dubai Mall

United Arab Emirates stands out as a land of amazing elements: plentiful enormous traffic roundabouts; roads chopped by huge speed bumps; some of the world's most memorable architecture, men in crisply starched, pressed and creased snow-white jelabiyas; gorgeously made-up women in every arrangement of wispy draped ebony abayas; vast cloudless skies; bathtub temp Gulf waters; worn but fragrant neighborhoods typical of Middle Eastern cities, all of it spiced with flavors and colors contributed by Asian and African immigrants.

The city of Dubai is Vegas on steroids. But as Craig says, "it's real." No imitation here. The world's tallest building hovers over the world's largest indoor shopping mall and possibly the world's largest water show. Hordes of  families from every continent bring their big bucks to spend. We spent hours at Dubai Mall without stepping inside a store. Every storefront featured stunning, eye-catching displays and it was all I could do to window-shop dozens of them. Dubai Mall must hold the record for the most fine chocolatiers and Bombay style furniture, most spacious food court, and the largest aquarium and zoo inside a mall. Ordinarily I'd rather have a root canal than head for a mall, but this place was as good as Disneyland (without the rides) (although it wouldn't surprise me if a few of those appeared someday).

In Dubai Mall I consumed the most delicious fruit drink ever, blended from pomegranates, lemons, and oranges. I'll post some photos of the mall today and more about UAE later this week.

one of many fantastic focus points in Dubai Mall


scores of restaurants


 gifts from many countries


 children's clothing and gifts


 one corner of the huge food court; yes you see McDs and Subway, but they have Arabic, Thai, Japanese, Lebanese, you name it--even Johnny Rocket's hamburgers


one of dozens of candy shops


the gold souk--if you plan to shop here, don't forget to take out a second mortgage before you come


fine pastries and cakes

gelato served here!


more sweets


furniture